Beauty
To Scrub, Slough, or Chemically Dissolve? Experts Weigh In On The Ultimate Guide To Winter Exfoliation
Get a smoother, clearer, brighter complexion with these three simple—and safe—steps…
If you’ve had a more intense urge to exfoliate your face during the pandemic you’re not alone: A recent report from NPD found that 40 percent of regular skincare users in the U.S. are slathering on more products now than a year ago—and “basic care” picks, such as cleansers, exfoliators, and scrubs, have experienced the most significant jump in demand. On a practical level, this makes sense; mask-wearing can trap sweat and bacteria on skin, and exfoliating can help unclog congested pores. And with many spas closed, regular, skin-sloughing facials are out of reach for many of us. Yet there’s also a psychological factor at play, too: as we vigorously wipe down surfaces and fiercely wage war on stealthy germs, there’s a certain mesmerizing appeal in peeling away the battle-worn outer layer of our skin to reveal the fresh, “clean” layer underneath.
But good intentions can often go awry. “It’s so easy to overdo it,” says New York-based medical esthetician Jordana Mattioli of striking the balance between featherlight- and heavy-handed exfoliation, the latter of which can lead to redness, inflammation, and hyperpigmentation, especially among women with Black or brown skin. “As a dermatologist that takes care of skin of color, I see a lot of aggressive exfoliation, and I’m often talking people down off the ledge—urging them to back off their faces,” confirms Carlos A. Charles, M.D., a Manhattan dermatologist and the founder of Derma di Colore, a medical practice that focuses on a range of different skin tones.
By design, skin naturally sheds dead cells in a 28-day cycle. Certain factors (dry, cold air; indoor heating systems; stress) can stall this process, however, so regular, mild exfoliating is crucial to increasing cellular turnover, insists Charles—especially in the winter months. The myriad ways to effectively break down the top layer of skin can be mystifying, though, and many tried-and-true solutions have gotten a bad rap of late. Physical exfoliation, the process of manually dislodging dirt and and stripping away surface cells with textured bits and grainy particles, was once the gold-standard of sloughing until popular exfoliants, such as the pulverized walnut shell pieces found in the ill-famed St. Ives Fresh Skin Apricot Scrub, came under fire for being too abrasive (a class action lawsuit filed against St. Ives in 2017 claimed that its popular product damaged skin by creating microtears). Mechanical exfoliation, which leverages tech-savvy devices to buff the complexion hasn’t fared much better: In September, L’Oréal abruptly pulled the plug on Clarisonic—the decade-defining skin brush that relied on spinning bristles and sonic vibrations to clean pores—much to the relief of dermatologists and aestheticians, who found the turbocharged at-home tool often did more harm than good. Chemical exfoliators, such as alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids, have emerged as some of the safest, and gentlest way to break down the bonds between skin cells and decongest pores with experts advising patch tests to rule out any irritation before use, and nighttime applications to reduce photosensitivity during the day. But knowing your mandelic acid from your glycolic acid can be overwhelming. Here, an expert-backed, three-step plan for safe, effective exfoliation to keep skin smooth, calm, and clear all winter long.
The Mechanics of Mechanical Exfoliation
If you have a thick layer of dull skin that’s mostly due to dryness and flakes, not acne, Mattioli suggests starting with a mechanical exfoliating tool, which is often more effective than relying on high-percentages of acids to break through initial buildup. Mattioli is a fan of Dermaflash Luxe, a dermaplaning device that uses a vibrating blade to ever-so-lightly “scrape away the top layer of skin,” she says; PMD Personal Microderm Classic, which combines spinning microdermabrasion discs that polish your face with “suction to pull out debris from pores,” offers a next step up, Mattioli adds. Los-Angeles-based aesthetician Shani Darden has long been wary of cleansing tools, many of which, she finds, “can be harsh on skin.” But Darden swears by the Nion Opus Luxe, which has soft, antibacterial silicone bristles that slough away dead skin “without causing irritation.”
The Chemical Reaction
Alpha-Hydroxy Acids
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Ice Cube Reveals Hollywood Turned Down His Sequel New “Friday” Movie
For fans of the “Friday” series, the dream of a new installment seems stuck in a frustrating loop of Hollywood bureaucracy. Ice Cube, a legend in both hip-hop and film, recently opened up about the hurdles he’s faced in trying to bring another “Friday” movie to life. Speaking candidly on Cam Newton’s Funky Friday podcast, the multi-talented West Coast icon revealed that studio executives have repeatedly shut down his vision for the franchise’s next chapter. And if you ask Cube, the problem isn’t his creativity; the decision-makers just don’t get it.
“Like, I know what it needs to be, and they don’t,” Cube told Newton, pointing to a former New Line executive, Toby Emmerich, as a significant roadblock. Ice Cube had written a script he believed would revive the beloved series, even imagining Chris Tucker’s return to his iconic role as Smokey. But studio execs reportedly balked at the storyline, which featured time spent in jail. “They was like, ‘Ah, jail’s not funny. It’s too much time in jail. How can you make jail funny?’” Cube explained, expressing his frustration with their lack of vision. Ironically, he pointed out, Hollywood has greenlit numerous successful jail-centered comedies, like Orange Is The New Black and Let’s Go To Prison.
Ice Cube didn’t mince words when describing the disconnect between creative talent and studio decision-makers. “More Hollywood execs don’t know what the f**k they’re talking [about],” he said. And when Newton suggested taking the project to another studio, Cube explained the legal red tape: “It’s not that simple. We did the movie through New Line, and they attached it to all the sequels. Has to come out through New Line.”
The rapper-turned-actor’s frustration is palpable, but it’s clear that his passion for the project hasn’t waned. Ice Cube’s ability to capture the humor and heart of everyday struggles made the 1995 classic “Friday” a cultural phenomenon. For Ice Cube, it wasn’t just a movie; it was a cultural milestone that sparked laughter and dialogue about life in the hood, told through an unfiltered comedic lens. Fans have been yearning for a return to the franchise’s hilariously relatable world, and with Ice Cube’s track record of success, it’s hard to imagine a script penned by him falling flat.
Hollywood, take heed: Ice Cube’s artistic vision deserves recognition. While his latest album, ‘Man Down,’ reminds fans of his brilliance in the rap game. However, many still hope Ice Cube can finally say “Bye, Felicia” to Hollywood’s bureaucracy and ultimately produce the much-anticipated sequel that “Friday” fans want. After all, who better to encapsulate the laughs and life lessons of a modern-day “Friday” than the man who originally initiated this beloved series?
Featured
Ray J’s NSFW Confession Shares Awkward Flirt Fest with Nicki Minaj On Instagram Live
Regarding social media dynamics, Ray J and Nicki Minaj’s collaboration is always a spectacle. Their Instagram Lives create buzzworthy moments, whether spilling tea or engaging in playful banter. However, on November 26, things escalated to new heights. Depending on how you see it, their chat took an eyebrow-raising turn as Ray J dropped a bombshell NSFW confession that left even Nicki Minaj speechless and viewers equal parts amused and utterly baffled.
It all started innocently enough, with Minaj grilling Ray J on some of their usual whirlwind of topics he made concerning Diddy. However, the conversation took a bizarre turn when Ray J decided to, quite candidly, share some details about his personal preferences. Ever the queen of comebacks, Nicki Minaj questioned his comment about “getting his groceries eaten,” asking for clarification. Specifically, he boldly confirmed his enjoyment of a certain intimate act, casually adding, “I always get in the shower before I have sex, so my ass is always gonna be clean.”*
Nicki, caught entirely off guard by a detailed explanation she wasn’t ready for, looked simultaneously confused and horrified. Sensing her reaction was a mix of disbelief and reluctant amusement only fueled his boldness. The awkward hilarity of the moment was enough to leave fans pausing and rewinding the video clip to see every second of her visibly perplexed face wrestling whether to laugh, grill Ray J further, or log off, screaming, “Did he really just say that?”
Much to Nicki’s dismay, things took an awkward turn when Ray J pivoted the conversation into shameless flirting behavior. He gushed poetic about her beauty, suggesting that even the mere utterance of his name was enough to “turn him out.” Trying to defuse the situation, Minaj dismissed his comments, but Ray J only doubled down, biting his lip seductively on camera while complimenting her. If awkwardness were an Olympic sport, Ray J might’ve snagged the gold medal.
Even the queen of holding her ground, Nicki quickly shut him down. “Don’t ever do that [again] in your life,” she warned sternly. After Ray J failed to rein in his antics, she delivered an ultimatum: stop, or she’d end the call. Predictably, Ray didn’t double down, his compliments flowing as freely as his earlier confessions, offering another apology laced with admiration. The rapper, clearly fed up, issued a final warning: “Stop playing like that, it won’t be the ending you want.” True to her word, Minaj promptly hung up, leaving viewers to process one of the oddest exchanges in their ongoing IG Live saga.
Throughout the chat, Nicki confidently navigated Ray J’s playful flirtations, maintaining her characteristic composure (mostly). While this may rank as their most bizarre live session to date, one thing is sure: these celebrities know how to keep people talking online, leaning into the absurdity of it all. Whether people love it or are shaken by it, fans can’t help but speculate about what unpredictable antics the duo will share next.
